Winter Vegetables: Leeks

Although leeks grow year round here in the Pacific Northwest, I associate them with late winter and early spring.  This is when they are at their most tender, and when fresh local vegetables seem like a most precious commodity.  Later in the year they will be bigger and tougher, and more onion-y.  But this is the time of year when leeks are at their best.

The leek is an allium, and thus a cousin to both garlic and onions.  It has a mild taste which is often described as "a cross between onions and cucumber."  Leeks are a delicious substitute for other alliums, and can be used either fresh or cooked.  

The leek is an important part of Welsh history and culture, and serves as the symbol of Wales in many contexts.  The leek appears on the cap badge of the Welsh Guards, on some issues of the British one pound coin,  and is worn in Wales on St. David's day.  The leek was also eaten by the Mesopotamians and in ancient Egypt, and was one of Emperor Nero's favorite vegetables.

The most important thing you need to know about leeks is how to clean them!  Because of the way they are grown (mulch is piled up around the stems to blanch them as they grow) even the best-rinsed leeks inevitably have dirt deep inside their leaves.

To clean a leek, cut off and discard both the very bottom stem part, and the top-most tough green leaves. Now split the leek in half with a sharp knife.  Rinse each half under cool running water while fanning the leaves apart to get in between each leaf.  

"Cawl" (a stew with root vegetables) is an integral and near-mythical part of Welsh history and cuisine, the Welsh version of our "hot dog and apple pie."  Traditionally cawl is made with lamb, but a vegetarian version is simplicity itself.

One of my favorite ways to eat leeks is as part of a breakfast scramble.  Cut the leek into thin slivers, and sauté on the stovetop until well browned and crispy.  Add diced potato and cook for about 20 minutes, turning the potatoes every 5 minutes or so.  Season with salt and pepper, and (for lacto-ovo vegetarians) add cheese or mix in an egg and cook.

Leeks are also a key ingredient in cock-a-leekie soup, a traditional Scottish soup.  Cock-a-leekie soup is often featured as part of the Burn's Supper, which celebrates the birth of Scottish poet Robert Burns on January 25th.  Traditional cock-a-leekie soup is made with chicken and chicken stock, but can easily be converted to vegetarian by use of vegetable stock instead.

Leek and potato soup is another leek classic.  This is a potato based soup, a hearty creamy soup which goes well with a cold winter's night.

The Veggie Table website also has an excellent collection of leek recipes, including one for "leek gratin" to be served over pasta.  Having just brought home a giant bundle of leeks from the food co-op last weekend, I think I will be giving this a try tonight!